Archives for category: Chicago

At the turn of the 20th Century, the sisters Ada and Minna Everleigh ran one of the most upscale brothels in Chicago: the Everleigh Club. The house, decorated with perfumed fountains, mirrored ceilings and a $15,000 gold-leafed piano in the Music Room, stood at 2131-2133 South Dearborn Street, not far from where Whirl and I now live. Custom House Row and the Levee District– as our neighborhoods were known at the time– were lousy with brothels and gambling halls, drifters, grifters and tramps.

Karen Abbott’s first book, Sin in the Second City, tells the story of “probably the most famous whorehouse in America’s history.” The comparisons to Erik Larson and Devil in the White City are unavoidable: Abbott writes in a similar, literary non-fiction style. She writes about a similar time and place. Many names are repeated in both works. I do not see these as criticisms.

The Chicago Tribune writes in its review:

At the heart of Abbott’s story beats the protracted war between the city’s purveyors of sin and its hawkers of salvation, between the city’s on-the-take pols, cops and brothelkeepers, and its social reformers, crusaders and Bible-thumpers.

So on this day when five colorful men have been convicted on all counts in the landmark Family Secrets mob-conspiracy trial, I return to the seedy Chicago of yesteryear to visit with my friends Michael “Hinky Dink” Kenna and “Bathhouse” John Coughlin. Hope to see you at the Club.

Stephanie on the Ferris WheelMy sister, Stephanie—not to be confused with my child bride of the same name—arrived in Chicago on Friday evening as I was flying back from Pittsburgh. (Yes, I passed the exams, thank you for asking. Aced them, in fact.) She stayed with us for the weekend and flew back out to Colorado this afternoon. It was just her; she did not bring her daughters with her.

Saturday morning we went to breakfast at Orange and then we went to Grant Park. We walked along the lake to Navy Pier. We toured the stained glass exhibit at the end of the pier, rode the Ferris Wheel and took in the Cirque Shanghai Bai Xi performance. Whirl left us for a bit to run back home and do some things about the house. So I took my sister up to American Girl Place at Water Tower. — Stephanie and all her daughters have American Girl dolls I learned this weekend. I’d never been to the store, but I knew where it was. Now I’ve been. And I know more about American Girl than I ever wanted to know. This week has been rather educational for me with regards to “what children want”. Still, we had a good time. Stephanie picked out some things for her girls and I played amateur sociologist.

Saturday night we went to Buddy Guy’s for dinner and some live blues. Between sets Whirl and Stephanie transformed themselves into epic pool players. Just ask them. They’ll tell you how epic they were at the tables. Go on. Ask.

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Clark BarClark Street cuts through a diverse section of Chicago. From north to south, Clark touches all of these neighborhoods: Rogers Park, Edgewater, Andersonville, Uptown, Sheridan Park, Lakeview, Wrigleyville, Lincoln Park, the Near North Side, the Gold Coast, the Loop, Printer’s Row, the South Loop, the Near South Side and Chinatown. Some of those areas are quite wealthy. Some are not. Some are rapidly developing. Some maintain a more steady-state of growth and decay. Some areas are commercial; some are industrial. Many are residential. A number of Chicago’s architectural and civic icons have addresses on Clark Street: Graceland Cemetery, Wrigley Field, and City Hall for three easy ones. Besides that, Clark is an angle street. For most of its length, Clark runs northwest-southeast. There are not a lot of angle streets in the city of Chicago. Most of the city is on a grid of north-south and east-west. My friend Mick has threatened to name all of his children after Chicago angle streets. So if you ever run into a bunch of children with the names Lincoln, Clark, Ogden and Archer you will know whose great idea that was. Anyway, I digress. Simply, I wanted to explore this wide-ranging artery of the city. I wanted to walk the entire length of Clark Street.

So today I walked Clark Street– the whole thing. I started at the northern border of the city at Howard and walked with Whirl and Niqui the twelve-mile stretch of fascinating streetscape to its southern terminus at Cermak Road. Liz and Smokes joined us for significant stretches along the way. It took the three of us five hours and forty-two minutes to complete the trek. That time includes a sixty-five minute lunch break across the street from the Chicago Historical Society. Those of you doing the math at home should come up with an average rate of travel of 2.6 miles per hour. I think that is a fine result.

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Mike Royko wrote a newspaper column in Chicago for thirty-four years. He started at the Daily News, then moved to the Sun-Times when the Daily News shut its doors. In 1984 he left the Sun-Times for the rival Chicago Tribune when the Sun-Times sold to Rupert Murdoch, claiming, “No self-respecting fish would be wrapped in a Murdoch paper.” His column was syndicated to some 600 papers around the country. He won fans, antagonists and awards– including the Pulitzer– for his work.

Royko died in 1997, just five short years after I arrived in Chicago. I remember reading his column when I first moved to town. I also recall never quite understanding his impact. I suspect that may be the deficiency of not growing up in this city. One More Time is a collection of just over 100 of Royko’s best columns. They were selected by his widow, Judy Royko, and several of Mike’s friends. Studs Terkel provided an introduction. Royko’s classic characters like Slats Grobnik live on in this collection; the Billy Goat Tavern is here as Mike remembered it. Some critics have argued Chicago pols get more attention than they perhaps deserve. Royko was an expert at finding universal truths in parochial situations. He could also keenly examine larger issues–war and peace, justice and injustice, wealth and poverty.

One reviewer describes the writer and his posthumous book this way:

A gruff, no-holds-barred writer, Royko spoke for the many who are voiceless. Despite his success and the rise of celebrity journalists, he remained refreshingly unimpressed with himself. “I just hope my next column is readable, doesn’t bore people,” he said in a 1993 interview. “I don’t have any grand scheme.” Yet the continued relevance of these columns reminds us that good journalists can make a difference. A terrific compendium for those who always meant to clip and save Royko’s words but didn’t.

That would be me.

Rick Kogan works as the host of WGN radio’s “Sunday Papers with Rick Kogan” and a senior writer and “Sidewalks” columnist at the Chicago Tribune. Years ago I counted myself a regular at the Billy Goat tavern on Washington– not the original, but filled with some shared history. But I know only the myths and misconceptions. In the acknowledgements of this book about Chicago’s Billy Goat Tavern Kogan writes:

You would not be holding this book in your hands if Sam and Bill Sianis had not asked me one afternoon sitting around a table at the tavern, “Would you write a book about the Billy Goat?” I told them that if they wanted a book strictly for the tourist crowd we could slap it together in about 30 minutes: a lot of pictures, a few Mike Royko columns, some curse and Saturday Night Live stories.

But Sam said, “No, I want the real story for the tourists and everybody else too,” and he then did everything in his considerable power to make it happen, correcting some long-standing errors in the historic record and offereing honest and often heartfelt answers to every question I asked him.

What Kogan produces is an affectionate tale that plunks you down at a barstool next to some of the Billy Goat’s regulars. In these stories he reminds us that the corner tavern is friendliest place in town and that there were once poets working for newspapers.

Over the past few days Whirl and I have been having a discussion about the geo-cultural classification of Chicago. Stated in the simplest terms: Is Chicago part of the Midwest? I hold that Chicago is part of the Midwest. My child bride does not. I must note that this discussion is not premised upon a purely geographical distinction. Neither one of us disagrees with the premise that Chicago sits firmly in the middle of the geographical region of America known as the Midwest. The interesting question for us is the cultural one.

As with most geographical regions—the boundaries of the Midwest are somewhat ambiguous. America’s history of westward expansion further complicates the issue. The original use of the term “Midwest” occurred in the 19th century and referred to the Northwest Territory bounded by the Great Lakes, and the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. This Northwest Territory would form the states of Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin and part of Minnesota. In time, some people began to include Iowa and Missouri under the aegis of the Midwest. With the settlement of the western prairie, a new term, “Great Plains States,” came into use to refer to North and South Dakota, Nebraska and Kansas. It is not uncommon for me to hear people refer to theses states as the Midwest, as well. – So we arrive at a list of twelve states in all. My altogether unscientific opinion is to define the Midwest as Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Iowa—the original Northwest Territory region, plus Iowa. I drop Missouri immediately from the region because of its Civil War history. Missouri seceded from the Union to the Confederacy and my experiences in that state suggest that is a cultural identifier the residents still struggle with to one degree or another. Iowa I feel just got placed on the wrong side of a big river—through no fault of its own. So I include it readily into the Midwest. I likely do this out of rank sentimentality. And while I agree that there are strong similarities between the Great Plains States and the Midwest, I think there is a strong distinction to be made of generation. I see the Midwest as the first generation of states “born” within the confines of the country. I might consider the Great Plains States a second generation. A son may resemble his father considerably and even follow in his footsteps; they are often quite different people. (Then again, I may be pushing an anthropomorphic analogy beyond the pale. I will stop.)

So, out of twelve possibilities, I believe seven of them are the heart of the Midwest. Illinois is right in the middle of those seven, and Chicago is undoubtedly a significant part of Illinois. But so far this has all been a geographical discussion, with a few historical items sprinkled in. And I said in the first paragraph that this is essentially not a geographical debate. So why am I spending so much time on that element? I think there are two reasons. The first is the easy one. I do it to rhetorically preempt arguments for the separation of Chicago from the Midwest through fallacious comparisons to remote locales on the outskirts of the region. Chicago is not the Midwest. You ever been to Holcomb, Kansas? No. Go. You’ll see what I’m talking about.

The second reason is more complicated. I have become interested in the idea of place and its effect on people. Why do I prefer to work in the office rather than work from home? My home is certainly more convenient. The commute is better. Similarly, why do I prefer to play poker at a casino rather than online? Why do I enjoy seeing movies in the theater even with the distractions of crackling plastic, a yammering, and too expensive popcorn? (And do not get me started on my rant about not being able to watch a movie at a theater in my bathrobe.) These are little places and short events. I am now looking at the long term effects of place on personality. What does a region do to me? – I suppose this is one of the reasons why I enjoy traveling: to explore that very effect, if only for a short while. Now I am trying to apply that exploration to my day-to-day life.

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